Bolonia beach - El Lentiscal

Welcome to paradise in the shape of a sand dune. A small hidden treasure on the coast of Cadiz. This little piece of heaven has managed to elude the urban development now typical of the Andalusian coast.

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A small cove nestled among arid hills that overlook the crystal clear vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. Hidden between the mountain San Bartolomé, the Sierra de Plata and a huge sand dune that shifts with the easterly winds, it is one of the last beaches of the Andalusian coastline untouched by modern development.

Time stands still in this small coastal village. None of the twenty five buildings scattered over the landscape stand higher than two stories. There is one notable exception: the controversial Baelo Claudia Archeological Centre. In spite of the controversy, it is an important reminder of Bolonia’s historical origins – the name Bolonia is derived from the local Roman ruins that, aside from the beach, are now one of the most visited places in the region.

The beach at Bolonia stands out because it offers three kilometres of sand and a stretch of sea where you can swim without having to avoid rocks or windsurfers. Here you can lie on the sand without feeling crowded or harassed. Walking to the top of the sand dunes that dominate the landscape will give you the chance to take in the panoramic views of the whole area and even make out the African coastline in the distance.

After a day’s walking or swimming, you can recover your strength at one of several restaurants that offer an excellent selection of meat and fish from the coast of Cadiz. People from this region originally made a living from rearing cattle and fishing, but when the neighbouring towns became popular with tourists in the summer, the hospitality industry grew to become the most important sector in the area.

Estate agents thinking of setting up shop in Bolonia are wasting their time. Construction here is strictly prohibited since the area forms part of the nature reserve of the Straits of Gibraltar. Julia Muñoz, owner of Hostal La Hormiga Voladora, is still sceptical about the situation: “They will eventually wreck the area with construction,” she laments. But Paco Fernández, from Tarifa’s town hall explains that “until the relevant law was passed in 1990 (Plan de Ordenamiento de 1990 de Tarifa) construction was not properly controlled, creating chaos. As a result there are no streets, no basic infrastructure and there isn’t even a decent sewage system. The law is trying to implement some kind of logical order. The only areas that will be developed are outside of the nature reserve of the Straits of Gibraltar, of which Bolonia is a part”.

Who for?

Bolonia is the perfect place for travellers looking for peace and tranquility. “The worst thing are the people that go on Sundays. They come and invade when there is no easterly wind (Levante),” explains Sandra who runs Gun Sails surf school with her partner Fabrice. Although the school dominates this part of the beach, Bolonia is not well known for its activities. Hard-core surf enthusiasts, fans of fashionable beachside dining and hikers looking for properly kept paths should consider some of the other beaches scattered along the Costa de la Luz.
Although the sign at the entrance to the beach asks bathers to dress modesty, further west you can undress completely, hidden away by the small dunes that are dotted around the landscape. Bolonia’s official nudist beach is in the other direction, towards the east. Getting there involves a relaxing hour-long walk.
Those interested in culture and history should visit the Baelo Claudia ruins. Access for disabled people has also been installed recently at the central entrance points.
Bolonia is dealing with a common problem faced by similar locations: the emigration of its youth. The lack of development in this village has resulted in a shortage of jobs and opportunities, both of which require educational establishments and social infrastructure. “There is nothing here. No sport, no bars …I’ll have to move to Cadiz, Seville or Malaga. But I don’t want to go far. I’d like to come back for weekends” explains Isidoro Barranco. “What rubbish!” says Fabrice. “Gun Sails has been open for more than five years. There are things to do in Bolonia but people have to make the effort and look for them”.

Thumbs up

The quality of the sand, its texture and colour. The crystal clear water. The dunes, plant life and cacti that protect bathers from the wind. Animals wander around the village freely, visitors are relaxed and respectful, and most of all, the lack of urban development. While there are built-up areas close by, once you arrive you feel like you are a million miles away.

Thumbs down

Access areas are not well-kept and the rubbish collection points are not properly taken care of by the Tarifa townhall. The Alpariate stream visitors cross to get to the western end of the beach and which flows into the sea smells bad. The process of building and installing a sewage treatment plant has recently started. “Until recently, the water that was being dumped into the sea was hardly controlled. It got to a point where this level of filth was unsustainable” explains Daniel López, representative from Ecologists in Action in Cadiz. Few people believe that the sewage treatment plant will be up and running any time soon and according to the locals “it could take more than ten years”. But López acknowledges that the water is still very good quality. “The sea dilutes concentrations of pollutants in the water”.

 Eat

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The beachside fish restaurant
Restaurante Otero
C/ Bolonia, 4
956688594

 Drink

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The best mojito
Chiringuito La Cabaña
C/ El Lentiscal, 1A
956688506

 Sleep

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Relaxing with sea views
Hostal La Hormiga Voladora, 78 €
C/ El Lentiscal, 15-16
956688562, Hormiga Voladora

By car
Take the N-340 from Tarifa and turn left at the crossing where Bolonia is signposted.