Cordoba: Travel Notes
A modern city is hidden amongst the narrow streets of this World Heritage Site. Just follow this simple guide to immerse yourself in the once thriving capital of the Caliphate of Cordoba with its flavour of Moorish history.
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By:
Rosa Gallardo y María de las Nieves García |
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Essential: stroll through the Jewish Quarter, amble along the banks of the Guadalquivir and taste salmorejo and pastel cordobés The weather:
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Walk, walk, walk… The perfect way to get to know this city is most definitely on foot. Breathe in the atmosphere and talk to people as they go about their day. A good place to start a stroll through Cordoba is on the Banks of the Guadalquivir, by the Tower of Calahorra at the southern end of the Roman Bridge. Nearby, the Mezquita is unforgettable, even more so when the gates are open to the Patio de los Naranjos (patio of the orange trees). The narrow streets of the Jewish Quarter (or to tell the truth, most of the old town) are enchanting at any time of day. The historic old town, the largest in Europe, has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gitac organizes a great tour of the Jewish Quarter (957491165, cordobagitac.com).
The Gardens of the Alcázar of Cordoba are worth visiting, especially in springtime. Close by the barrio de San Basilio is a neighbourhood filled with the famous patios of Cordoba, filled to the brim with flowers of every colour. To get to grips with the city, you can ramble around four distinctive plazas: Plaza de Las Tendillas, Plaza del Cristo de los Faroles, Plaza del Potro and Plaza de la Corredera. The latter is filled with life: old and young, people share plates of aubergine with honey, salmorejo, flamenquines and rabo de toro.
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There are also gazillions of places to eat throughout the streets of the city. Try and taste some of the wine from the area, the Montilla - Moriles and the sweet Pedro Ximénez. Our recommendation: at least once in your life you must eat in the labyrinthine patios of Bodegas Campos (C/ Los Lineros, 32, 957497500, bodegascampos.com). Spectacular food and service.
In the area, the shops and street vendors show off gifts, clothes and intricate silver jewellery and cordobanes (leatherwork). If you want to give in to temptation and indulge fantasies of romantic Moorish history, there are many teahouses near the Mezquita. On the other hand, if you are a cinema lover, or simply need a rest from the tourist trail, its good to know that Cordoba is home to the Andalusian Film Library, a chance to watch great films on the big screen (C/ Medina y Corella, 5, 957355655, filmotecadeandalucia.com). Another important site you should see, though you’ll need alternative transport, is the archaeological site Medina Azahara (also the name of an Andalusian rock band, in case you’re interested!). Located 8km from the centre it is under constant expansion thanks to the continued excavation throughout the city (Carretera de Palma del Río, km. 5,5, 957355507, juntadeandalucia.es).
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Tertulia recommends
Eat
Treat yourself
Bodegas Campos, 40 € (por persona)
C/ Los Lineros, 32
957497500, bodegascampos.com
Quick lunch
Bar Santos
C/ Magistral González Francés, 3
957479360
Cheap and cheerful
Taberna San Miguel
Plaza de San Miguel, 1
Classic tapas
Pepe de la Judería
C/ Romero, 1
957200744
Local cuisine
Restaurante Puerta Sevilla, 35 €
C/ Postrera, 51
957297380, puertasevilla.com
Need to impress
Restaurante El Alma
C/ Teruel, 23
957282798, elalmacordoba.com
Seafood
Bajo de Guía
C/ Conchita Cintrón, 2
957278965
A trip to Italy
Pizzaiolo
C/ San Felipe, 9
Avda. del Brillante, 97
957486433, pizzaiolo.com
Everyone is talking about it
La Boca
Paseo de la Ribera, 24
695961862, restaurantelaboca.com
Everyone is talking about it
El Astronauta
C/ Diario de Córdoba, 18
957491123, elastronauta.es
Everyone is talking about it
Restaurante Choco
C/ Compositor Serrano Lucena, 14
957264863
Everyone is talking about it
Soul Food
C/ San Fernando, 39
957471404
Tea houses
Tetería Hammam
C/ Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, 51
957484746
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Drink
A few pints
La Buhardilla
C/ Córdoba de Veracruz
Tertuliar
La Pérgola
Jardines del Duque de Rivas
Everyone is talking about it
MOMA
Via Norte esquina Miguel Gila
Something different
La Amapola
Paseo de la Ribera, 9
Something different
Soul
C/ Alfonso XIII, 3
957491580
Nightclub
Underground
C/ Conde de Robledo, 1
undergroundcordoba.com
Live music
Jazz
Jazz Café
C/ Rodríguez Marín
957481473
Great live music
Sala Metrópolis
Polígono Chinales
Profesor Arnold J. Toymbee
659472440, salametropolis.com
Electronic
Automático Muzik Bar
C/ Alfaros, 4
609104309
Rock
LongRock
C/ Teniente Braulio Laportilla, 6
longrock.es
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Sleep
Business trip
Hotel Córdoba Center, 200 €
Avda. de la Libertad, 4
957758000, hotelescenter.es
Dependable Chain
NH Califa, 129 €
C/ Lope de Hoces, 14
957299400, nh-hoteles.es
Dependable Chain
NH Amistad Córdoba, 79 €
Plaza de Maimónides, 3
957420335, nh-hoteles.es
Cosy and central
AC Hotel Córdoba, 115 €
Avda. de la Libertad
957768383, ac-hotels.com
Great atmosphere
Hotel Lola, 82 € a 120 €
C/ Romero, 3
957200305, hotelconencantolola.com
Historic
Hotel Casa de los Azulejos, 110 €
C/ Fernando Colón, 5
957470000
Luxury
Palacio del Bailío, 175 €
C/ Ramírez de las Casas Deza, 10-12
902254255, 957498993, hospes.es
Design-hotel
Hotel AC Córdoba Palacio, 115 €
Paseo de la Victoria, s/n
957760452, hotelaccordobapalacio.com
Cheap and cheerful
The Terrace Backpackers , 52 €
C/ Lucano, 12
957492966, HOSTELWORLD.COM
Hidden away
Parador de la Arruzafa, 80 €
Avda. de la Arruzafa, s/n
957275900, parador.es
Youth Hostel
Albergue juvenil
Albergue Juvenil de Córdoba, 25 €
Plaza de Judá Leví
957421428
Camping
Camping El Brillante 23 € a 25 €
Avda. del Brillante, 50
957403836
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Shop
Music store
Fuentes Guerra Discos
C/ Caño, 11
957475727, fuentesguerra.es
Bookstore
Universitas
C/ Rodríguez Sánchez, 14
957473304, libreriauniversitascordoba.es
Bookstore
Crash Cómics
C/ Duque de Fernán Núñez, 2
957481395
Wedding dresses
Basi del Río
C/ Eduardo Lucena, 3
957488251, basidelrio.com
Getting ready for feria
Trinitrán
Plaza de San Andrés, 5
957480387, trinitran.com
Ecological
Ideas del Mundo
C/ Claudio Marcelo, 7
957474880, ideas.coop
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Skyline
Mezquita de Córdoba
The third largest mosque in the world, declared a World Heritage Site, and astoundingly beautiful
C/ Cardenal Herrero, 1
958225226, mezquitadecordoba.org
Jewish Quarter
Travel into the past through the centre of the city
Gardens of the Alcázar of Cordoba
Gardens set on the banks of the Guadalquivir River
Campo Santo de los Mártires, s/n
957 420 151
Molino de Martos
With its Museum of Water this water mill is a great way to discover the ancient uses of the river
Paseo de la Ribera, s/n
Sinagoga
A temple in the centre of the Jewish Quarter which stands out for its Mudejar plasterwork
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Sports and spas
Getting sweaty
Centro Deportivo Aquazul
C/ Santa Victoria, s/n
957102628, centrodeportivoaquazul.com
Relax
Medina Califal
C/ Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, 51
957484746, hammamspain.com
Be adventurous
Centro Ecuestre La Loma
Escuela de equitación
Ctra. de Trassierra, km 2
957329120
Team sports
Palacio Municipal de Deportes Vista Alegre
Avenida Aeropuerto, s/n
957453200
Sports center
Polideportivo Guadalquivir
C/ Libertador Joaquín José Da Silva y Xavier, s/n
957760037
Golf
Club de Campo y Deportivo de Córdoba
Ctra. Córdoba-Obejo, km 9,2
957350208
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Museums and galleries
Contemporary
Arte 21
C/ Manuel María de Arjona, 4
957484741
Classical
Museo Bellas Artes
Plaza del Potro, 1
957473345, juntadeandalucia.es
New talent
Sala Aires
C/ Arguiñán, 2
957486328
New talent
Sala Cajasur-Reyes Católicos
C/ Reyes Católicos, 6
957482047
Julio Romero de Torres
Museo Julio Romero de Torres
Plaza del Potro, 1
957491909, museojulioromero.org
Customs and crafts
Museo Taurino
Plaza de Maimónides, 1
957201056
Customs and crafts
Museo Casa de Serafad
C/ Judíos (Esquina calle Averroes)
957421404
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Theatre and dance
Classic
Gran Teatro de Córdoba
Avda. Gran Capitán, 3
teatrocordoba.com
Independent
Teatro Avanti
C/ María Auxiliadora, s/n
957491166, teatroavanti.com
A little of everything
Teatro de la Axerquía
Av. del Conde de Vallellano
957760945
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Cinema
Mainstream
Multicines El Arcángel
Centro Comercial El Arcángel
Avda. El Arcángel, s/n
957750479
Mainstream
Guadalquivir Cinemas
C/ Libertador Matías Delgado, s/n
957421326
Mainstream
Cinesur El Tablero
Centro de Ocio El Tablero
C/ Juan Ramón Jiménez, s/n
957405259
In the center
Cines Finesar Alcázar
C/ Reyes Católicos, 15
957478992
Original version
The Film Archive of Andalusia
C/ Medina y Corella, 5
957355655, filmotecadeandalucia.com
Outdoor cinema
Coliseo San Andrés
C/ Fernan Perez de Oliva, 6
Outdoor cinema
Delicias
C/ Frailes, 10
Outdoor cinema
Olimpia
C/ Zarco, 14
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Transport
Eco
Blobject
Avda. Doctor Fleming, s/n
957760033, blobject.es
Car rental
Europcar
Glorieta de las Tres Culturas, s/n - Estación AVE-Renfe
957403480, europcar.es
Taxi
957764444
Bus
957764676
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Green zones
Meeting point of Conde de Vallellano with Paseo de la Victoria
The gardens known as Jardines de la Victoria, or "los Patos" (the ducks)
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Wireless
Universidad de Córdoba
Request password
957218200, uco.es
Centro Cívico de la Corredera
Request password
Plaza de la Corredera, s/n
957496882
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Escapes
If you’re in need of a rest, the Arab baths near the Mezquita are great for relaxing and having a massage (C/ Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, 51, 957484746, hammamspain.com). For contemplating the city and revelling in nature visit Las Ermitas in the midst of the mountains. Even on a limited schedule, there are several towns and villages that are ideal for a short break. Zuheros is one of them. From there you can explore the famous Cueva de los Murciélagos (the literal translation is Bat Cave - to the dismay of phobic’s). Priego de Córdoba deserves special attention for the beauty of the barrio de la Villa and the Kings Fountain with its 139 jets of water. In the depths of the Natural Park of the Subbética Rute produces delicious aniseed liquor, as well as protecting donkeys due to being home to Adebo (Association for the Defence of Donkeys). We would get in trouble if we forgot to mention the Almodóvar del Río castle, one of the best conserved castles in Spain.
Useful contacts
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Town Hall
C/ Capitulares, s/n
957499900, ayuncordoba.es
Córdoba University
C/ Alfonso XIII, 13
957218200, uco.es
Hospital Universitario Reina Sofía
Avda. Menéndez Pidal, s/n.
957010001
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Emergency Medical Attention
061
Fire
957514080
Post office
C/ José Cruz Conde, 15
957496342
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Local police
957520319
Ecologists in Action
957492359
24-hour pharmacy
Avda. América, 3
957472095
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Getting there?
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By air
Ctra. Aeropuerto s/n. A 6 kilómetros
957214100, aena.es
Unfortunately there is as yet not a regular service, and the airport is used mostly for agricultural products and transporting organs for emergency operations.
By train
Glorieta de las Tres Culturas, s/n.
902240202, renfe.es
By bus
Estación de autobuses de Córdoba
Glorieta de las Tres Culturas, s/n
957404383
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Bibliography
These books related to Cordoba: Travel Notes may interest you.
Links
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4 comments
Ha quedado muy bien la guía, pero solo quería puntualizar que la comuna ya no existe como tal. La convirtieron en un sitio rockero…
Se podría cambiar por el Long Rock que han puesto nuevo en el centro, cerca de la discoteca Underground, pero a mi me gustaba más la comuna (jeje).
¡Gracias Lucía!
Ya lo hemos actualizado.
Going to Cordoba in July for the guitar festival. First time there so thanks for all the information.
Bob and Estelle, get yourself ready for standing the heat, though you´ll forget about it cause the festival is so so good. Enjoy!!!