Huelva: Travel Notes
There are three things you must do when you arrive in Huelva. First, don’t expect to find a thriving city centre. It doesn’t exist. As you walk the streets you can’t help feeling that it lacks a clear and defined identity. Huelva is a provincial capital existing somewhere between the vestiges of its mining history, rural character and current standing as an industrial centre with its controversial polo quimico, or chemical plant, which prevent the city from moving forward to shine as a popular travel destination within Andalusia. An authentic and unaffected city, its modesty is its best asset. Second. Make sure to order a plate of jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn–fed Iberian ham) in any of the restaurants on the Calle Vázquez López, the main commercial artery of the city. Our recommendation? El Restaurante Azabache (C/ Vázquez López, 22, 959257528, restauranteazabache.com). Unless you want to try the exquisite black rice, their fresh fish is a great option as a main course. The white sea bass, corvina, is simply delicious. If you’re lucky enough to visit in the right season, find a place that serves strawberries. You won’t regret it!
If you want to stay closer to home, visit the Muelle de la Compañía de Rio Tinto built in 1876. A three-tiered train track used by the Rio Tinto Company Ltd. to load their ships with minerals. Taking the Eiffel Tower as his inspiration, the dock was designed by Georges Bruce. For a relaxing afternoon, take some time to sit at the end of the pier looking out at the water. The old English workers’ district, known as the Barrio Reina Victoria is one way to go back in time to 1916, to a British suburb located on the Andalusian coast. Designed by RH Morgan, it was originally built to house workers in the mining industry and the 88 semi-detached houses take up 8 hectares. In 2002 the Junta de Andalucía declared it a site of historical interest. Back in the city centre, the cultural options are somewhat limited: the Gran Teatro de Huelva (C/ Vázquez López, 13, 959245703, huelvacultura.com), Museo de Huelva (Alameda Sundheim, 13, 959650424, juntadeandalucia.es) with its temporary exhibits and archaeological collection, and finally the Casa Colón (Plaza del Punto, s/n, 959210111,ayuntamientohuelva.es), a multifunctional centre that houses the Film Festival held once a year in Huelva. The 1900 Company Bar (C/ Garci Fernández, 10, 1900company.blogspot.com) organizes exhibitions and a cinema club in the evenings. It’s probably your best bet if you’re looking to meet like-minded people. At night head for Avenida Pablo Rada, a meeting point for young people in the city. You’ll find loads of restaurants that offer an assortment of tapas and traditional food. If you ask anyone where to go out athe answer will invariably be the Red Lion (Avenida Martín Alonso Pinzón, 26, 959259101). If you’ve got a car, another option is Sala Habana (Polígono Polirosa, C/ I, 149, 699912895, habanamusica.es) for enjoying alternative live music. |
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Escapes
There are literally hundreds of adventures to be had without travelling too far from the city. To the east, between Mazagón and Matalascañas, you’ll find the Parque Dunar (Cra. de Matalascañas a Mazagón, 959448409, parquedunar.com), 130 hectares of sand and dunes up to ten metres tall. Within its boundaries take a look at the marine biology museum, Museo del Mundo Marino (Parque Dunar, Cra. de Matalascañas a Mazagón, 959448409, parquedunar.com). If you’re into surf, don’t miss the opportunity to do some surfing in Mazagón.
Another must see is the Parque Natural y Nacional de Doñana (from Huelva: take the A-494 towards Matalascañas. In Matalascañas, take the A-483 to El Rocío). You’ll find a wide variety of species inhabiting its many wetland ecosystems, such as the Spanish Imperial Eagle and the Iberian Lynx, both in danger of extinction. The largest ecological reserve in Europe it is spread out over 53,709 hectares. In order to visit, you need to get permission from the parks head office (959439626, reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es). Another option is to hire a guide from Doñanatour (C/ El Real, 31, 959442468, donana.com). They offer four-wheel drive tours, as well as excursions on foot and horseback.
To the west, take the road towards Punta Umbría and follow the coast. Punta Umbría, El Portil and El Rompido conceal beaches and coves ideal for small sail boats. If you keep going as far as Lepe, you can stop in on the strawberry fields if it’s the right season. You won’t forget the taste. For more beaches, keep going until you get to Isla Cristina.
La Rábida is just 12 km from the city, and is home to the famous monastery Santa María de la Rábida (959350411, monasteriodelarabida.com). Christopher Columbus planned his voyages of discovery to the Americas from within its walls. Nearby you’ll find Moguer, a picturesque white village where the great poet Juan Ramón Jiménez was born. In the entrance of the village you’ll see a sign painted with his words: La luz con el tiempo dentro - Light with time inside. Once there you can relive his poetry by visiting his birthplace, now housing the Fundación Juan Ramón Jiménez (C/ Juan Ramón Jiménez,10, 959372148, fundacion-jrj.es).
If you’re visiting Huelva, don’t forget to pop in to the Riotinto Mines. The main aim of the Parque Minero de Riotinto (Plaza Ernest Lluch, s/n, 959590025, parquemineroderiotinto.com), is to educate visitors about mining culture. On offer is a guided tour to the Peña de Hierro mine between Riotinto and Nerva, during which you can go down into the galleries and even find out about top secret C.A.B. and N.A.S.A investigations.
Useful contacts
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Getting there?
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By air By train By boat By bus |
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Bibliography
These books related to Huelva: Travel Notes may interest you.
- • Andalucía. Lonely Planet, Londres, 2005
- • VV.AA. Huelva. Guía Azul, 2003.
- • Cobos Wilkins, Juan. El corazón de la tierra. Plaza y Janés, Barcelona, 2001.
Discography
These albums related to Huelva: Travel Notes may interest you.
Filmography
These films related to Huelva: Travel Notes may interest you.
- • Cuadri, Antonio. El corazón de la tierra, 2006.
- • Hamilton, Guy. La batalla de Inglaterra, 1969.
- • Petersen, Wolfgang. La historia interminable, 1984.
Links
- • Official website for the tourist board of Huelva Province
- • Check out more Andalusian city travel guides in the Tertulia Andaluza Cities section
This post was uploaded by Julio Ruiz the 30 May 2009 at 5:24 PM.
Tags: andalusia, aventuras, copas, featured huelva, restaurantes, andalusia, cities, city, eat, going out, sleep, escape, explore, gastronomy, travel notes, guide, hotels, Huelva, environment, huelva province, nightlife, travel
2 comments
I agree completely. I visited Huelva city last year. It has a strange aura about it, like a city living for the time it spends outside itself and on the beaches and in the countryside around it. But it is strangely beautiful with the combination of the nature around it, the chemical plant, ships, the monstrous architecture… And there is a calmness and lack of arrogance in all the people I met that really impressed me. I’d recommend it.
solo deciros que la tarteria las alemanas esta especializada en tartas caseras al estilo aleman, elaboradas con mucho mimo y productos naturales. algo diferente! chocolate, fruta natural, nata…. todo sabores propios e intensos. saludos