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Jaén: Travel Notes

Land of olive groves and proud olive pickers, or so says the song. But Jaen is much more. Here is a practical guide to ensure you don’t miss out on any of its secrets.


By:  María Vázquez
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Eat Drink Live music Sleep Shop Sports and spas Museums and galleries Theatre and dance Cinema Transport Green zones Escapes

 

EventsFind out what’s on! Check out our events guide for Andalusia.
Essential: walking up from the Cathedral to the fortress of the Castle of Santa Catalina to take a look at the view
The weather:

One of the best ways to get to know the city is with a walk from the cathedral to the fortress of Santa Catalina Castle (C/ Maestra, 18, 953219116) via the old quarter. The starting point: Pósito Square (from the year 1900). Around the square are many typical bars with terraces from where you can sit and watch the world go by. The Bar El Pósito (Plaza del Pósito, open from 12,00 to 24,00, ) is a fabulous meeting point to enjoy wines, beer, coffee and drinks, as well as music (jazz 24/7), photos and paintings all over the walls. The bar Bodegón (Plaza del Pósito, open from 13,00 to 17,00) is a cellar where you can enjoy and purchase fresh produce.

Beside Pósito, you will find the San Francisco wholesale food market (C/ Joaquín Tenorio, s/n, 953234232) where you can buy fresh produce (black pudding, chorizo, game, wild meat, beans…). Once you get to Santa María Square, you’ve reached the Cathedral (Plaza de Santa María, s/n, 953234233, catedraldejaen.org). Canditate for a world heritage site, it houses the famous Santa Rostra relic and it is surrounded by several Renaissance palaces: the Obispado Palace, the Vélez Palace and the Provincial Council. Head up to the hills you to visit the Jewish and Mary Magdalene districts, both of Arab origin.

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In the Jewish Quarter, dating from the year 612, walk up to Calle Maestra, off which are several labyrinth-style alleys, just like a souk (open-air marketplace). Just a step away, you will see a series of old taverns known as “Las Tascas”. This urban area has a lot of charm, aside from its wine! Your best bet is to wander in and out of El Gorrión (C/ Arco del Consuelo), the Manchega (C/ Bernardo López, 8, 953232192), the Manila (C/ Maestra, 4, 953232218), and La Barra (C/ de la Parra). You’ll have to tear yourself away to continue the uphill battle to the Mary Magdalene district. Calle Santa Úrsula takes you to a convent of the same name (famous for its confectionary. By following the calle Santo Domingo Bajo you’ll end up at Villadompardo Palace (Plaza Santa Luisa de Marillac, s/n, 953248000), in whose basement lies the largest and oldest Arab baths in Europe. They won the “Europa Nostra” gold medal for their excellent restoration.

When heading back from the Jewish Quarter you’ll have to ask for the Carrera de Jesús, the large avenue that will take you from the cathedral to the edge of the castle. After a 30 minute stroll surrounded by pine forest and with the Tomillo district at your back, you’ll reach the foot of the fortress, now part of the Parador Hotel (Castillo de Santa Catalina, s/n, 953230000, parador.es).

 

Tertulia recommends


 Eat

Quick lunch
El Pecado, 20 €
C/ Conde
953231827

Early morning coffee
Colombia 50
Avda. de Madrid

Working lunch with colleagues
Entre tapas y vinos, 30 €
Paseo España, 16
953220316

Cheap and cheerful
Mesón Los Monteros, 20 €
C/ Salsipuedes, 2
953088358

Classic tapas
Marisquería El Pato Rojo, 30 €
C/ Bernabé Soriano, 12
953234099

Classic tapas
El Cuatro Esquinas, 10 €
C/ Teodoro Calvache

Local cuisine
El Pilar del Arrabalejo, 30 €
C/ Millán de Priego, 49
953240781

Need to impress
Restaurante Horno Salvador, 50 €
Carretera del Castillo de Santa Catalina, Km. 3,5
953230528

Seafood
El Bahía, 40 €
Plaza San Roque, 1
953251450

Everyone is talking about it
El Pósito, 20 €
Plaza del Pósito

Great coffee
Cafetería Berges
C/ Arquitecto Berges, 21
953252111

Something different
Panadería-Pastelería La Colmena
(desde las 5 a.m.)
C/ Fuente del Alamillo, 16
953265536

 Drink

Great for a chat
San Patrick
C/ Alhóndiga, 39
958258080

Great for a chat
San Louis
C/ San Francisco Javier

Everyone is talking about it
Outside
C/ La Rioja

Something different
El Aquelarre
C/ Nueva, 7

To be seen
El Deán
Plaza Deán Mazas

Gay
El Toro
C/ San Francisco Javier

To be seen
Mosses Music-Club
C/ Gracianas, 12

Nightclub
Discoteca Heaven
Paseo de la Estación, 54

Last round
Bariloche
Ctra. Madrid Km. 333
953284094


 Live music

Jazz
Chubby Cheek
C/ San Francisco Javier, 7
661041843, chubbycheek.es

Great live music
Sala Iroquai
Calle Adarves Bajos, 41
salairoquai.com

A little of everything
Auditorio de La Alamadea
Alameda de Calvo Sotelo
lagartofestival.org

 Sleep

Historic
Hotel Xauen, 70 €
Plaza Deán Mazas, 3
953240789

Historic
Hostal La Española
C/ Bernardo López, 9
953230254

Luxury
Hotel Infanta Cristina, 100 €
Avda. de Madrid, s/n
953263040

Cheap and cheerful
Hotel Condestable Iranzo
Paseo de la Estación, 32
953222800, ‎hotelcondestableiranzo.com

Hidden away
Hotel Palacio de Mengibar, 120 €
Plaza de la Constitución, 8
Mengíbar, Jaén
953374043, lacaseriadepiedra.com

They take dogs
Husa Europa, 75 €
Plaza de Belén, 1
953222704,husa.es

Parador
Hotel Parador de Jaén, 180 €
Castillo de Santa Catalina
Carretera Castillo de Santa Catalina
953230000, parador.es

Youth Hostel
Albergue juvenil y spa, 20 €
C/ Borja, s/n
953313540, inturjoven.com

 Shop

Music
El Real Musical
Plaza de San Ildefonso, 6
953243292

For the home
Tres Morillas
C/ Tres Morillas, 20
953242773

Second hand
Mimo
C/ Capitán Oviedo, 13
mimolibros.com

Something for yourself
Selectra
Plaza de San Ildefonso

Street market
Mercado de San Francisco
C/ Joaquín Tenorio, s/n
953234232

International press
Metrópolis
C/ Cerón 17
953234793

 Skyline

Castle of Santa Catalina
C/ Maestra, 18
953219116

Santa Iglesia Cathedral
Plaza de Santa María, s/n
953234233, catedraldejaen.org

Palace of Villardompardo
Plaza Santa Luisa de Marillac, s/n
953248000

City walls of Jaen
Surrounding the ancient city

La Judería (Jewish Quarter)
Small labyrinthine alleys and the ideal place to breath in the historic character of the city.

El Monumento a las Batallas
Plaza de las Batallas
A monument to the Greek goddess of victory to commemorate the military battles that have marked Jaen.

 Sports and spas

Getting sweaty
Aquagym Jaén
C/ Sagrada Familia, 4-6
953252509

Relax
Wellness Balneario Urbano Plenarium
C/ Juanito Valderrama 2
953224847, plenarium.es

Be adventurous
Alma Gaia
Deportes de aventura y actividades programadas
C/ Maestro Cebrián, 5
953228282, almagaia.es

Sports center
Avenida de Granada, s/n
953239126

Team sports
Nuevo Estadio de la Victoria
Carretera de Granada, s/n

 Museums and galleries

Contemporary
International Museum for Naïve Art
Plaza de Santa Luisa de Marillac
(Plazoleta del Pato)
953236292

Classical
Museo Catedralicio
Iglesia de la Catedral
Plaza de Santa María
953263511

Archaeological
Museo Provincial de Jaén
Arqueología y Bellas Artes
Paseo de la Estación, 27
95327450, 953250600

Customs and crafts
Museo de Artes y Costumbre populares
Plaza de Santa Luisa de Marillac
(Plazoleta del Pato)
953236292

 Theatre and dance

Classical
Teatro Infanta Leonor
C/ Maestra, 18
953219116, teatrojaen.es

A little of everything
Teatro Darymelia
Festival de Otoño
C/ Colón, 6
953219180

 Cinema

Original version
Cine Club Universidad Popular
Avda. Andalucía 47
953263111

Mainstream
Cine Cervantes
C/ Bernabé Soriano, 31

Mainstream
Cines Alkázar I y II
C/ Muñoz Garnica, 4
953234903

 Transport

Car rental
Europcar y National Atesa
Plaza Jaén Por La Paz, s/n
953266011, europcar.es; atesa.es

Taxi
Radio Taxi
953222222

 Green zones

Parque de la Victoria
A veritable oasis whose wide shadows offer respite from the chaos during the summer months.

Alameda Calvo Sotelo
A tree-lined avenue whose auditorium is a meeting point for the culturally minded.

 Escapes

For a change of scene, the best option is to indulge in home-grown produce. They call it Oil Tourism and it consists of olive grove landscapes, gastronomy, culture and entertainment. First stop has to be Museum-School Hacienda La Laguna, just 30 kilometres from the city (Puente del obispo, Baeza, 953765142, museodelaculturadelolivo.com). Also a rural hotel, this is the best place to find out about the entire olive oil process. If you feel like being a little more adventurous, you can hire a bike and cycle The Olive Oil Trail . The route goes down the old railway line, known as the olive train, for 121 kilometres long and even takes you into the province of Córdoba.

 

Useful contacts


Town Hall
Plaza Santa María, 1
953219100, aytojaen.es

Jaén University
Campus Las Lagunillas, s/n
953212121, ujaen.es

Hospital Princesa de España
Avenida de Madrid, s/n
953222650

Emergency Medical Attention
061

Fire
Avenida Andalucía, s/n
953251595

Post office
Plaza de los Jardinillos, s/n
953247800

Local police
092

Ecologists in Action
Avda. de Andalucía, 47
953256368

24-hour pharmacy
Paseo de la Estación, 52
953255426

Video



Getting there?


By air
The closest airport is Granada (90 Km)
902400500, aena.es

By train
Plaza de las Culturas, s/n
902240202, Horarios en renfe.es

By bus
Bus Station
Pza. Coca de la Piñera, 6
953250106, lasepulvedana.es/index.html, alsa.es


Ver mapa más grande

Bibliography


These books related to Jaén: Travel Notes may interest you.

Links






4 comments

Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 29 January 2009 a las 10:38 PM, Rachel dijo...

Great to see Jaen in focus, lots of good info - keep it up.


Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 10 September 2010 a las 5:23 PM, jose chaves dijo...

HOLA : megustaria que pusieseis bien la direccion del alojamiento rual y restaurante la caseria de piedra toda la informacion la podeis ver en nuestra web .
muchas gracias jose


Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 9 February 2012 a las 11:34 AM, Rosa dijo...

En lo referente a la recomendación del bar El Pósito, no estoy de acuerdo. El sitio es bonito, pero el servicio es malo y las copas no las elaboran bien. Los camareros son bastante antipáticos.


Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 10 January 2013 a las 7:43 PM, jose chaves dijo...

Caserio Andaluz Centenario, enclavado en plena naturaleza, rodeado de varios bosques de pinos jovenes y olivares, vistas panaramicas y todas las comodidades ideales para que la estancia le resulte lo más cómoda posible. Este lugar se llama Alojamiento Rural “La Casería de Piedra”, restaurante y desde aquí, le invitamos a conocerla y degustar nuestra cocina Jaenera.

Nuestro principal argumento es la CALIDAD.



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