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Seville: Travel Notes

There is no city quite like Seville. Traditionalist and open in equal measures, with a unique blend of sevillan regality and modernity. But don’t be deceived by appearances. Deep down she’s a hot-blooded lady and it’s contagious. Reading our Travel Notes will help you discover her secrets.


By:  Leonardo Sardiña
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Eat Drink Live music Sleep Shop Sports and spas Museums and galleries Theatre and dance Cinema Transport Green zones Wireless Escapes

 

EventsFind out what’s on! Check out our events guide for Andalusia.
Essential: getting lost in the labyrinthine city centre, relax into the pace of life, have tapas for lunch, watch the sunset from the Calle Betis in the neighbourhood of Triana.
The weather:

To become a fully-fledged tourist, you must visit the area surrounding the Cathedral, Giralda and the so-called Indian Archives (referring to the Spanish colonies in the New World), recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The gypsy women will try to read the palm of the most gullible, as well as selling them stems of rosemary, but the silhouette of the Tower of Almohade and gothic facades will not fail to leave an impression.

Strolling through the famous barrio de Santa Cruz, filled to the brim with souvenir stores is also on the itinerary. But don’t forget to delve deeper in any direction into the extensive city centre, including the more commercial parts of town. Look out for the many Gothic-Mudéjar churches. Filled with bars and places to listen to homegrown flamenco, the neighbourhood Triana is an alternative for music lovers. Wandering around the legacy of the two Expo´s is another option: the Plaza de España, built in 1929 by the architect Aníbal González or the Island of Cartuja (Isla de la Cartuja) with the many pavilions built for the 1992 Expo.

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The paths on either side of the river are a gathering place for both students and joggers. From the Gold Tower (Torre de Oro) you can even catch a boat and follow them along the river. After dark, head for the centre and the El Arenal neighbourhood for a bite and a glass of wine. The Alameda de Hércules (a tree-lined avenue reminiscent of las Ramblas in Barcelona) has been reclaimed as a pedestrian area, and is full of students sipping their drinks in some of the most alternative bars in the city. Foreign students and tourists seem to prefer to spend their nights on the calle Betis, while watching the city on the other side of the river.

And to finish up, a cinematographic tour of the city: our very own Walk of Luis Buñuel, your chance to visit all the locations in Seville used by the director in his film That Obscure Object of Desire.

 

Tertulia recommends


 Eat

Something different
Nueva Victoria
Avenida Torneo, 85
954380748

Working lunch with colleagues
Sabina
C/ Dos de Mayo 4
954562547

Classic tapas
Eslava
C/ Eslava 3
954906568

Modern tapas
Boreas
Plaza Puerta Real 6
954909720

Local cuisine
Patio San Eloy
C/ San Eloy 9
954221148

Need to impress
Contenedor
C/ San Luis 50
954916333

Vegetarian
Restaurante Gaia
C/ Luis de Vargas 4

Cheap and cheerful
Zarabanda
C/ Padre Tarin 6
954903080

Everyone is talking about it
Burguette
C/ Albareda 24
954564244

Everyone is talking about it
Ovejas Negras
C/ Hernando Colón 8

Sweet treats
Ocumare
C/ Carmen, 11
954380074, ocumare.net

 Drink

Something different
La Carbonería
C/ Levíes, 18

Cocktail bar
Gastrosol
Espacio Metropol Parasol
Plaza de la Encarnación, s/n

Wine bar
Pati Tó
C/ Arrayán, 23

A few pints
Habanilla
Alameda de Hércules, 63

Gay
El Barón Rampante
C/ Arias Montano, 3

Tertuliar
República Café
Alameda de Hércules, 27


 Live music

Great live music
Sala Malandar
C/ Torneo, 43

Great live music
Sala Fun Club
C/ Alameda de Hércules, 86

Electronic
Sala Emporio
C/ Marie Curie, s/n
955990322

Flamenco
Auditorio Álvarez Quintero
C/ Álvarez Quintero, 48
954293949, alvarezquintero.com

Live music
Sala Obbio
C/ Trastámara, 29

 Sleep

Cosy and central
Un Patio Al Sur, 58 €
C/ Fernán Caballero, 7
954221035

Great atmosphere
Alcoba del Rey de Sevilla, 95 € - 214 €
C/ Béquer, 9
954915800

Great atmosphere
Hotel La Musica, 103 €
C/ San José, 10
954501443, hotelamadeussevilla.com

Historical
Hotel las Casas de la Judería, 180 €
Callejón de Dos Hermanas, 7, Plaza de Sta. María la Blanca
954415150, casasypalacios.com

Luxury
Hotel Alfonso XIII, 685 €
C/ San Fernando, 2
954917000, starwoodhotels.com

Design-hotel
Eme Hotel
C/ Alemanes, 27
954560000, emehotel.com

Cheap and cheerful
Hostal The Living Roof, 20€ / persona
C/ Dos de Mayo, 16

Business trip
Nh Central Convenciones, 73 – 290 €
C/ Diego Martínez Barrio, 8
954548500, nh-hotels.com

Luxury
Hospes Las Casas del Rey de Baeza, 180 - 220 €
C/ Santiago, 2. Plaza Jesús de la Redención
954561496, hospes.com

Parador
Parador de Carmona, 149 - 159 €
C/ Alcázar, s/n
Carmona
954141010, parador.es

 Shop

Something for the kids
Librería Rayuela
C/ José Luis Luque, 6 (Plaza de la Encarnación)

Getting ready for feria
Blasfor
C/ Sierpes, 79
954214050

Something original
Wabi Sabi Shop & Gallery
C/ Viriato, 9

Local produce
Extraverde
Plaza Doña Elvira, 8
954218417

Local
Sevilla Records
C/ Amor de Dios, 27
954387702

Sweet treats
Ambrosius
Calle Carlos Cañal, 10
954767729, ambrosius.es

Something original
Impact Sea
C/ Arjona, 5
954564552, impactsea.es

Something for yourself
Maspapeles
Zaragoza 17
954220618

 Skyline

Metropol-Parasol (Las setas)
Controversial design by Jürgen Mayer that has created incredible views of Seville
Plaza de la Encarnación
espacio-metropol.com

Catedral de Sevilla
Right in the thick of the city centre and adjoined to the famous Giralda
Avenida de la Constitución, s/n
954563150, catedraldesevilla.es

Alameda de Hércules
One of the most characteristic walks in the city, next to the river Guadalquivir and the commercial centre of Seville

Isla de la Cartuja
Once a wasteland located between two branches of the River Guadalquivir, after becoming the official location for Expo 92, it is now home to the CAAC, la Fundación Tres Culturas, Isla Mágica and the Teatro Central

La Campana
Antiquated patisserie with beautiful window displays and a meeting point for locals in the old town
C/ Sierpes, 1 y 3
954223570, confiterialacampana.com

 Sports and spas

Relax
Estudio de Pilates Contrology
C/ Méndez Núñez
954218157

Getting sweaty
Club de Remo Ciudad de Sevilla
C/ Paseo Juan Carlos I, s/n
954915773, remosevilla.com

Relax
Centro Integral de Yoga
C/ Santa Ana, 24
954385956, centrointegraldeyoga.com

Arab baths
Aire de Sevilla
C/ Aire, 15
955010025, airedesevilla.com

Getting sweaty
Cartuja Sport
C/ Enríquez de Ribera, 3, Isla de la Cartuja
954463000, cartujasport.com

Getting sweaty
La Cartuja Centro de Alto Rendimiento
Isla de la Cartuja, s/n
954461676, lacartuja.net

Getting sweaty
Galisport
C/ Ignacio Gómez Millán, s/n
954338808
Avda. Cardenal Bueno Monreal, s/n
954296555, galisport.com

 Museums and galleries

Contemporary
Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo
Avenida de los Descubrimientos
Isla de la Cartuja

Classical
Museo de Bellas Artes
Plaza del Museo, s/n

New talent
Wabi Sabi Shop & Gallery
C/ Viriato, 9

Photography
Cobertura Foto
C/ Narciso Campillo, 4

Archaeological
Museo Arqueológico
Plaza de América s/n

Photography
El Fotómata
C/ Plaza de la Mata, 20

New talent
Galería Full Art
C/ Madrid, 4

 Theatre and dance

Classic
Teatro de la Maestranza
Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 22

Cutting edge
Teatro Central
C/ José Gálvez, s/n, Isla de la Cartuja

Cutting edge
Teatro Duque La Imperdible
Plaza del Duque, s/n

Cutting edge
El Perro Andaluz
C/ Bustos Talavera, 11

Independent
La Fundición
C/ Habana, s/n

A little of everything
Teatro Lope de Vega
Avda. María Luisa, s/n

For the kids
Teatro Alameda
C/ Crédito, 11

 Cinema

Original version
Avenida 5 Cines
C/ Marqués de Paradas, 15
954293025

A bit of everything
Alameda Multicines
C/ Alameda de Hércules, 9

Mainstream
Arcos Multicines
Av. de Andalucía, esquina Ronda del Tamarguillo (Centro Comercial Los Arcos)
954254488

Mainstream
Nervión Plaza
Av. Luis de Morales, s/n (Centro Comercial Nervión Plaza)
954426193

Out of town
Lux Cinemas Zonaeste
Av. Alcalde Luis Uruñela, s/n
902221636, luxcinemas.com

 Transport

Bicycle: eco-travel
SEVICI
Pick-up points
902011032, sevici.es, € 25 a year and € 10 a week

Taxi
Radio Taxi Sevilla
954571111

 Green zones

Parque del Alamillo
Cortijo del Alamillo, Isla de la Cartuja
954787878, parquedelalamillo.org

Parque María Luisa
Beautiful and lush park situated between the Av. Portugal, Av. Borbolla, Av. Eritaña, Paseo de las Delicias and Av. María Luisa
sevilla.org

Jardines de la Buhaira
Gardens located between Av. Buhaira and Av. Eduardo Dato
sevilla.org

 Wireless

Parque del Alamillo
Open access
954787878, parquedelalamillo.org

Universidad de Sevilla
Request password
954554444
reinus.us.es

 Escapes

The essential escape is to Cordoba. Only 35 minutes by train, and 50 minutes by car, the ancient Umayyad capital deserves at least a day. Don´t miss the Mezquita, the Alcázar gardens or the narrow streets of the Jewish quarter. Eating tapas at labyrinthine Bodegas Campo (C/ Lineros, 32. 957474142) is a must. In the evening you can even combine a visit to Media Azahara (Carretera de Palma del Río, km. 5,5, 957355507, hammamspain.com).

For a more peaceful escape, there is also Carmona, only 20 minutes away. The best thing to do is to relax into the streets seeped in history, or check out the view from the Parador (C/ Alcázar, s/n, 954141010, parador.es). Oh! Don´t forget to taste some of the sweets made by the local nuns such as the torta inglesa or the chestnuts with cinnamon. You should probably buy enough to take some home.

If you feel like seeing the sea, head towards Huelva for some of the best beaches within an hour from Seville. Mazagón is home to 13 km of sand. Ideal for surfers, Mazagón is the place to enjoy the waves and more silence than in the bustling Matalascañas nearby.

In the nearby Puebla del Río, you can visit the Cañada de los Pájaros (Carretera Puebla del Río a Isla Mayor Km 8, 955772184, canadadelospajaros.com), a marsh filled with birds in their natural habitat. You can even sleep in their country collage. If you´re feeling like a fight, we know just the place for you: Paintball Seville ( Reserva Natural de la Ruta del Agua, Guillena, 607390040, paintballsevilla.com. If you are traveling with children, and want to get back to nature, visit the Center for the Interpretation of Nature (Parque Municipal de la Juliana - El Pinar, Carretera A-474Bollullos-Aznalcazar, km 12,3, 955778035, cnlajuliana.org) which offers up diverse workshops and activities.

Video



Getting there?


By air
Aeropuerto de San Pablo
Carretera Nacional IV Madrid-Cádiz kilómetro 532
Código Aeropuerto SQV
954449000, aena.es

By train
Estación de Santa Justa
Avenida de Kansas City s/n
902240202; renfe.es

By bus
Estación Plaza de Armas
Avenida del Cristo de la Expiración s/n
954908040, sol.com

Estación de El Prado de San Sebastián
Manuel Vázquez Sagastizábal s/n
954417111, sol.com


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Bibliography


These books related to Seville: Travel Notes may interest you.



3 comments

Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 4 February 2010 a las 3:28 PM, Angela dijo...

MUY COMPLETO. Y MUY BUENAS RECOMENDACIONES. Y MUY BIEN ORDENADO
¿hay algo similar para otras ciudades?


Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 4 February 2010 a las 4:16 PM, Lakshmi I. Aguirre dijo...

Hola Ángela. En la sección Ciudades, dentro de la Categoría Explora, encontrarás una guía por cada capital de provincia, además de otras ciudades como Marbella, Ronda o Antequera.

¡Gracias!


Pon tu propia imagen con Gravatar
El 22 June 2010 a las 10:31 AM, Pilar dijo...

En Sevilla hay lugares aún ocultos al visitante. Probablemente por lo mal que nos vendemos. Estaba pensando concretamente en la Casa de Pilatos. Os dejo un link por si queréis descubrir esta joya arquitectónica: http://tupersonalshopperviajero.blogspot.com/2010/06/pilatos-house-witness-to-greatness-and.html
saludos
;-)




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